Travel with Debi Lander: Central Oregon is worth the wait

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Debi Lander
Debi Lander

By Debi Lander

A passing rain shower could have spoiled my visit to Smith Rock State Park. Instead, it provided the finishing touch. As the weather cleared, the cliffs glowed above the winding Crooked River, their colors freshened by the rain. For a photographer visiting Oregon for the first time, it was quite a welcome.

Oregon was my 49th state, and Central Oregon gave me plenty of reasons to wonder why I had waited so long. Here were rushing rivers, volcanic rock, mountain views and towns where an afternoon of browsing could be as appealing as a morning on the trail. For this Floridian, even the horizon was a welcome change.

Redmond is the region’s air gateway, with Bend a convenient base for exploring. Set along the Deschutes River, Bend combines outdoor energy with the pleasures of a walkable downtown. Restaurants, galleries and coffee shops make it easy to fill the hours between excursions. You can plan an ambitious day of hiking and paddling, or keep things simple with a riverside stroll and a good meal.

South of Bend, the High Desert Museum helps explain the country you are traveling through. Its mix of indoor exhibits and outdoor habitats connects the landscape with the history, the people, the art and wildlife that call it home. I saw birds of prey, otters and other native animals, while the exhibits explored the challenges of living in the high desert. It is a worthwhile early stop: the scenery means more when you begin to understand it.

At Benham Falls, the Deschutes trades its gentler stretches for a noisy rush through a rocky channel. Think tumbling rapids rather than a single curtain of falling water. White foam surges against dark rock, and a ponderosa pine trail along the river offers places to stop and take it all in. For photographers, the movement of the water and the contrast of light and dark provide plenty to work with. For everyone else, the river supplies its own entertainment.

Smith Rock, north of Bend, delivers drama on a much larger scale. Rock walls and spires tower over the Crooked River, drawing climbers from around the world. Views from above the canyon are rewarding, while trails offer closer encounters with the river and cliffs — some more demanding than others.

The town of Sisters offers a gentler afternoon. Western-style storefronts give main street a distinctive cowboy look, with mountain scenery beyond. Shops, galleries and its celebrated annual outdoor quilt show reflect a strong creative streak. It is a place to browse without a schedule and stop for lunch.

Lodging can be part of the experience, too. Sunriver Resort offers upscale accommodations and recreation, FivePine Lodge & Cabins in Sisters pairs a wooded setting with a spa, and Brasada Ranch adds horseback rides through the high desert.

What stayed with me was the variety: otters at the museum, white water at Benham Falls, the easy pace of Sisters and those cliffs emerging from the rain. Oregon may have been number 49 on my list, but Central Oregon deserves far more than a check mark. I can’t wait to return.

Debi Lander is an award-winning travel writer and photographer who blends her passion for history, culture, food, and personal discovery into captivating stories. Through her website Bylandersea.com and her long-running travel column for Florida Newsline, she explores destinations from small U.S. towns to iconic global landmarks. She hopes her  storytelling and practical insights inspire readers to experience the world with curiosity, appreciation, and a sense of adventure. Debi can be reached by email to mail@floridanewsline.com.